One of the least understood aspects of motocross racing by non-participants is the incredible level of physical fitness required of competitors. Many people unfamiliar with the sport often assume that the rider is doing nothing more strenuous than steering a motorized vehicle around a field, something that would be just as easy as driving the family car around the block. This is not the case. Racing pocket bikes, or motocross racing, has actually been found to be one of the most physically demanding sports in existence. If someone really studies a rider's actions while racing, it becomes easy to see why.
The rider must maintain incredibly ultra-precise control of a machine that is not only traveling, but racing, over the type of terrain that most people would have difficulty walking across. They have to do this while maintaining as fast a speed as possible. The rider is astride a machine weighing a large amount of weight and, at the most elite professional level, has an engine that pushes them at almost seventy-five miles per hour at top speed. A rider's arms and legs are constantly moving during a race, fighting for control of the motorcycle while absorbing the energy produced by high-speed landings from heights that can often exceed twenty feet, not to mention the two-foot high stutter bumps (called whoops) that beat the crap out of both the motorcycle and the rider. The G forces produced from the race test the absolute limits of a rider's strength and endurance. Finally, a typical professional race lasts a minimum of thirty minutes, if not longer. That means for a full half an hour, the faster the rider goes, the more violently and frequently he or she is punished. Unlike Nascar, there are no pauses, breaks, time outs, or pit stops.
The National Sport Health Institute in Englewood, California, tested several professional motocross racers in the early 80's as part of a comparative study of athletes in different sports. Most of what was tested was the cardio-vascular (heart) fitness of athletes from various sports across the board. Athletes from track and field, American football, basketball, and soccer were tested, among several others. The cardiac stress and strength showed, to many people's great surprise, that the motocross athletes had just as high of a fitness level as any other discipline tested. In other words, this isn't a sport to get into unless you are willing to do the type of high level conditioning that athletes in other sports must endure to get to the peak of their game. Argue however you want, but tests show that pocket bike racers and motocross racers are athletes, and need to be viewed as such.
Friday, October 21, 2011
Mountain Bike Frames
Your very first ride down the steep slopes of a bona fide mountain on a rock strewn trail on an old bike will undoubtedly leave you convinced to the necessity of purchasing a strong and resilient mountain bike frame! It, as your body will attest, is going to absorb a lot of shock. If you invest in a good mountain bike frame, it will do even more: it will actually absorb, into its metal and components, much of the shock that would otherwise move readily into your own components!
Design and construction of mountain bike frames has advanced centuries in the last couple of decades, really. What is available today only remotely resembles the first so-called mountain bikes some of us rode in the early nineteen-eighties. Today, mountain bike frames are available in geometries and materials unimagined two decades ago. What you need is going to be a combination of your own body and your individual intentions. If you like the thrill of high speed downhill rides, you will need a vastly different bike than if you ride on level trails. If your preference is to avoid going over rocks, you will need a different bike than someone whose eyes light up at the sight of a boulder strewn pathway. Think about what you enjoy before you go shopping for a mountain bike.
Mountain bike frames spend a lot of time on roads these days, too. Most of the bikes seen around town seem to be mountain bikes or some hybrid of the mountain bike. Fact is, mountain bikes are made for comfort. What they add to genuine off-road riding (shock absorption, easy gearing, and responsive handling) may be essential but what they add to street riding (shock absorption, easy gearing, and responsive handling) is no less appreciated by the casual rider. You will even find mountain bike riders on most any of the long, multi-day road tours so increasingly popular. You will not, probably, find these riders among the front pack though: a mountain bike frame is not made for efficient road usage, even if it does add comfort.
Getting a mountain bike frame that's right for you is possible either in person at a good bike store or online if you know your size and usage requirements, but the vastly different frame geometries make riding a bike before buying it more important than ever. The traditional triangular structure of a road bike frame is frequently drastically skewed on today's mountain bike frames, rendering the triangle almost unrecognizable. Shopping at a good bike store will put you in touch with bike professionals who will be able to recommend the right geometry for your unique physique and your own unique preferences and strengths as a rider.
Design and construction of mountain bike frames has advanced centuries in the last couple of decades, really. What is available today only remotely resembles the first so-called mountain bikes some of us rode in the early nineteen-eighties. Today, mountain bike frames are available in geometries and materials unimagined two decades ago. What you need is going to be a combination of your own body and your individual intentions. If you like the thrill of high speed downhill rides, you will need a vastly different bike than if you ride on level trails. If your preference is to avoid going over rocks, you will need a different bike than someone whose eyes light up at the sight of a boulder strewn pathway. Think about what you enjoy before you go shopping for a mountain bike.
Mountain bike frames spend a lot of time on roads these days, too. Most of the bikes seen around town seem to be mountain bikes or some hybrid of the mountain bike. Fact is, mountain bikes are made for comfort. What they add to genuine off-road riding (shock absorption, easy gearing, and responsive handling) may be essential but what they add to street riding (shock absorption, easy gearing, and responsive handling) is no less appreciated by the casual rider. You will even find mountain bike riders on most any of the long, multi-day road tours so increasingly popular. You will not, probably, find these riders among the front pack though: a mountain bike frame is not made for efficient road usage, even if it does add comfort.
Getting a mountain bike frame that's right for you is possible either in person at a good bike store or online if you know your size and usage requirements, but the vastly different frame geometries make riding a bike before buying it more important than ever. The traditional triangular structure of a road bike frame is frequently drastically skewed on today's mountain bike frames, rendering the triangle almost unrecognizable. Shopping at a good bike store will put you in touch with bike professionals who will be able to recommend the right geometry for your unique physique and your own unique preferences and strengths as a rider.
How To Find The Best Bicycle Frame
Whether you're shopping for a bike or just admiring them, the first part you notice is probably the bicycle frame. The frame is the heart of a bicycle, as well as its art. Including the basically triangular core structure that supports both seat and handlebars and the extensions that attach to the wheels, the color and the geometry of the bicycle frame not only affects the beauty of the bike, but its strength and speed as well. The pleasure and success you derive from bicycle riding will be strongly impacted by having the right frame for your physique and your purposes.
The Two Most Important Aspects of Bicycle Frames Are Their Materials and Their Configuration
Naturally, your bicycle frame will take into dramatic account whether you ride primarily on roads or off-road. Not only are so-called mountain bike frames made of noticeably bigger "tubes," they are made of more shock resistant materials, with stronger weldings. Road bike frames have a smaller triangular geometry and the main consideration in their material is its weight. Everything on a road bike is designed to keep the rider's resistance to a minimum in order to promote fluency and speed, while a mountain bike is designed with the primary goal of shock absorption and maneuverability in mind alongside speed-influencing factors.
Even among these two main divisions, you will find major differences in bicycle frames. Road bikes used primarily for touring or recreational riding will have frames with a more relaxed geometry and more total horizontal spread front to back, while racing bikes will tighten that structure for a shorter front to back bike length. A tighter triangle and less distance between the bicycle frame and the tires acts to decrease the resistance of wind and road for a racer, as well as to increase the bike's ability to respond to the quick, minute maneuverings road racing requires.
There are several basic considerations to keep in mind when choosing the correct bicycle frame for your individual physique and your riding purposes. In addition, your unique body shape and weight will also affect what kind of bicycle frame is best for your comfort and accomplishment. Standard frame measurements, made along the seat tube of a frame, take into account the length of your legs, but the relationship of your torso length and arm length to the length of your legs is also extremely important to comfort on a bicycle, and the length of the top tube of the bicycle frame must also be examined. Two riders of identical height may need completely different bicycle frames. The best thing you can do is to shop at a bicycle store where knowledgeable riders earn their living and where you are allowed to try out a bicycle before buying it.
The Two Most Important Aspects of Bicycle Frames Are Their Materials and Their Configuration
Naturally, your bicycle frame will take into dramatic account whether you ride primarily on roads or off-road. Not only are so-called mountain bike frames made of noticeably bigger "tubes," they are made of more shock resistant materials, with stronger weldings. Road bike frames have a smaller triangular geometry and the main consideration in their material is its weight. Everything on a road bike is designed to keep the rider's resistance to a minimum in order to promote fluency and speed, while a mountain bike is designed with the primary goal of shock absorption and maneuverability in mind alongside speed-influencing factors.
Even among these two main divisions, you will find major differences in bicycle frames. Road bikes used primarily for touring or recreational riding will have frames with a more relaxed geometry and more total horizontal spread front to back, while racing bikes will tighten that structure for a shorter front to back bike length. A tighter triangle and less distance between the bicycle frame and the tires acts to decrease the resistance of wind and road for a racer, as well as to increase the bike's ability to respond to the quick, minute maneuverings road racing requires.
There are several basic considerations to keep in mind when choosing the correct bicycle frame for your individual physique and your riding purposes. In addition, your unique body shape and weight will also affect what kind of bicycle frame is best for your comfort and accomplishment. Standard frame measurements, made along the seat tube of a frame, take into account the length of your legs, but the relationship of your torso length and arm length to the length of your legs is also extremely important to comfort on a bicycle, and the length of the top tube of the bicycle frame must also be examined. Two riders of identical height may need completely different bicycle frames. The best thing you can do is to shop at a bicycle store where knowledgeable riders earn their living and where you are allowed to try out a bicycle before buying it.
Getting Started in BMX Racing
BMX racing is a fun sport for young people. For kids, the basic bike should have 20-inch wheels. Riders under age six can use whatever type of bike they have, even if it's not a true BMX freestyle bike. These little folks might still be riding bikes with wheels as small as 12-inches. Some tracks even have races for Big Wheel bikes.
A cruiser or mountain bike with 24-inch or 26-inch wheels might be okay, too, but check ahead of time with your local track for advice. Many tracks will let you race a mountain bike in the "Cruiser" class.
Whatever bike you use should be equipped this way. Remove all reflectors. Take off the kickstand and chainguard to prevent injury in a wreck.
The bike should have pads on the top tube, stem and crossbar. Most BMX freestyle bikes already have these pads. If your bike doesn't have them, adding this safety feature will cost about $5.
The bike should have at least one working brake. A coaster brake is fine if that's all the bike has. The bike should be in safe working order.
Finally, tie a paper plate to the handlebars. This will be your number plate. When you get to the track, they'll give you a number to put on it. That number will identify you to the judges and fans as you are racing.
Safety is important
For head protection, a helmet is essential. Depending on the track rules, this may need to be a full-face helmet or a helmet with a separate mouthguard. Other tracks will accept any type of inexpensive motocross-style helmet.
Wear protective clothing. Regular long pants or jeans will protect the rider's legs. For arm protection, wear a long-sleeved shirt. Since riders will use their feet, they should wear good sturdy shoes they are comfortable riding in.
Although you can race without gloves, wearing them is a good idea. Be sure they fit well and don't interfere with moving your hands. Finally, bring bike tools and an air pump in case repairs are needed.
Ready to race
To race, a potential rider needs to find a track. Local bike shops may have information on where the nearest track is. Otherwise visit the National Bicycle League (NBL) or American Bicycle Association (ABA) websites. These are the sanctioning bodies of BMX racing. They provide advice and insurance to local tracks. As an NBL or ABA member, you will have some medical insurance if you get hurt on the track during a race and do not have other insurance.
A parent or guardian must accompany the rider to give permission for the child to race. A birth certificate must be shown as proof of age. Most tracks charge between $15 and $35 for a racing license that is licenses good for a year. There is also an entry fee for each race, which is usually between $6 and $10.
For your first visit to a particular track, get there about two hours before the first race starts. Find the registration tent or trailer and sign up.
Then take a walk around the track. Try to remember where the jumps are. Next it's time to practice. Put your helmet and other gear on and follow the others to the starting gate. Watch what everyone else does and where they go. A beginner should put his front wheel against the starting gate, keeping one foot on a pedal and the other one on the ground. Start pedaling when the gate drops. Go slow the first few times until you feel comfortable.
After practice, the races will be posted. The people at the registration tent can tell you where your particular race will be posted and how the race actually works. You will be in a group or "moto" with other riders about your age. Line up with them in the staging area. When your group is called, go up and race! This will probably happen three or four times, depending on the system the track uses, and then it will be over. If you win, you might get a trophy. Even if you don't, you'll have fun.
A cruiser or mountain bike with 24-inch or 26-inch wheels might be okay, too, but check ahead of time with your local track for advice. Many tracks will let you race a mountain bike in the "Cruiser" class.
Whatever bike you use should be equipped this way. Remove all reflectors. Take off the kickstand and chainguard to prevent injury in a wreck.
The bike should have pads on the top tube, stem and crossbar. Most BMX freestyle bikes already have these pads. If your bike doesn't have them, adding this safety feature will cost about $5.
The bike should have at least one working brake. A coaster brake is fine if that's all the bike has. The bike should be in safe working order.
Finally, tie a paper plate to the handlebars. This will be your number plate. When you get to the track, they'll give you a number to put on it. That number will identify you to the judges and fans as you are racing.
Safety is important
For head protection, a helmet is essential. Depending on the track rules, this may need to be a full-face helmet or a helmet with a separate mouthguard. Other tracks will accept any type of inexpensive motocross-style helmet.
Wear protective clothing. Regular long pants or jeans will protect the rider's legs. For arm protection, wear a long-sleeved shirt. Since riders will use their feet, they should wear good sturdy shoes they are comfortable riding in.
Although you can race without gloves, wearing them is a good idea. Be sure they fit well and don't interfere with moving your hands. Finally, bring bike tools and an air pump in case repairs are needed.
Ready to race
To race, a potential rider needs to find a track. Local bike shops may have information on where the nearest track is. Otherwise visit the National Bicycle League (NBL) or American Bicycle Association (ABA) websites. These are the sanctioning bodies of BMX racing. They provide advice and insurance to local tracks. As an NBL or ABA member, you will have some medical insurance if you get hurt on the track during a race and do not have other insurance.
A parent or guardian must accompany the rider to give permission for the child to race. A birth certificate must be shown as proof of age. Most tracks charge between $15 and $35 for a racing license that is licenses good for a year. There is also an entry fee for each race, which is usually between $6 and $10.
For your first visit to a particular track, get there about two hours before the first race starts. Find the registration tent or trailer and sign up.
Then take a walk around the track. Try to remember where the jumps are. Next it's time to practice. Put your helmet and other gear on and follow the others to the starting gate. Watch what everyone else does and where they go. A beginner should put his front wheel against the starting gate, keeping one foot on a pedal and the other one on the ground. Start pedaling when the gate drops. Go slow the first few times until you feel comfortable.
After practice, the races will be posted. The people at the registration tent can tell you where your particular race will be posted and how the race actually works. You will be in a group or "moto" with other riders about your age. Line up with them in the staging area. When your group is called, go up and race! This will probably happen three or four times, depending on the system the track uses, and then it will be over. If you win, you might get a trophy. Even if you don't, you'll have fun.
Improving Drive: Customizing with Performance Parts
Customizing your pocket bike can turn a common bike into a real pocket rocket when you use pocket bike performance parts. Many pocket bikes performance parts not only make your pocket bike faster and more powerful, they add to the general look of “attitude” you want your competition to see on the track! Those cool side stripes may look great, but they're not going to get you around the track any faster. Put your money into high performance pocket bike parts and then you'll have a bike that can back up the appearance of attitude you've given it.
When you’re looking for pocket bike performance parts, remember your bike's speed and power is “all in the mix”. The correct mixture of gas, oil, and air are the elements that combine to work like jet fuel for your pocket rocket. However, if your customized bike is riding too hot, a good solution is to start with a temperature sticker. These parts for pocket bikes are typically sold in packs of three, and can easily be applied to your bike’s engine, suspension and other heat sensitive parts.
Most pros get the largest boost in speed and overall performance from pocket bike performance parts like velocity stacks and air filters. While those are king, take the time to still add some performance pocket bikes parts for pipe and custom carburetion and the only thing that will be able to stop you will be your own brakes! In addition, there’s something about performance parts pocket bikes custom pipes and exhaust system that makes your bike look like a formidable adversary to your competition, and gives you an early psychological edge in any competition!
There are many other performance parts for pocket bike enthusiasts that not only help you stay in the race, but combined with your skill, will put you in front of the pack. Some things that you might overlook are pocket bike performance parts like custom grips and foot pegs that improve your ability to control your bike. Remember not to have immediate expectations. The best racers are those who know their bikes, so it may take some time for you to re-adjust after adding these improvements. Concentrate on getting used to how they ride, and soon the only thing you'll have to worry about is how far ahead of everyone else you are before hitting the finish line.
When you’re looking for pocket bike performance parts, remember your bike's speed and power is “all in the mix”. The correct mixture of gas, oil, and air are the elements that combine to work like jet fuel for your pocket rocket. However, if your customized bike is riding too hot, a good solution is to start with a temperature sticker. These parts for pocket bikes are typically sold in packs of three, and can easily be applied to your bike’s engine, suspension and other heat sensitive parts.
Most pros get the largest boost in speed and overall performance from pocket bike performance parts like velocity stacks and air filters. While those are king, take the time to still add some performance pocket bikes parts for pipe and custom carburetion and the only thing that will be able to stop you will be your own brakes! In addition, there’s something about performance parts pocket bikes custom pipes and exhaust system that makes your bike look like a formidable adversary to your competition, and gives you an early psychological edge in any competition!
There are many other performance parts for pocket bike enthusiasts that not only help you stay in the race, but combined with your skill, will put you in front of the pack. Some things that you might overlook are pocket bike performance parts like custom grips and foot pegs that improve your ability to control your bike. Remember not to have immediate expectations. The best racers are those who know their bikes, so it may take some time for you to re-adjust after adding these improvements. Concentrate on getting used to how they ride, and soon the only thing you'll have to worry about is how far ahead of everyone else you are before hitting the finish line.
What Style of Biker Are You?
From touring to off-road riding to track riding to cyclo-riding to recreational biking—there are almost as many different styles of riding as there are bikes. The following is a discussion of three of the most popular styles of biking today.
Street/Urban Riding
Street/Urban riding is when you bike through urban areas, ride on ledges and other man-made obstacles. Some riders execute tricks as well as stalls and grinds. Hybrid bikes, sometimes called city bikes, are typically used for street/urban riding. Hybrid bikes are a cross between a mountain bike and a road bike. Most have front suspension with wide comfortable seats and upright handlebars.
Free Riding
The essence of free riding has it origins on the shores of British Columbia. As some free riders have explained it, free riding is more than just riding, it’s about riding with your friends and doing things on your bike that push the limits of both yourself and your bike. It’s not about being the fastest or coming up with a new trick. Rather, it’s about being totally free on your bike. Free riding is different for everyone. Essentially, when you ride for pure enjoyment, do your own thing, in your own way, that’s free riding--making it more of a mindset than a structured style of riding. For example, you could free ride downhill, cross-country or down the boardwalk in Ocean City, Maryland.
Many free ride bikes closely resemble downhill bikes and weigh as much, although they are usually designed to be easier to pedal. Free ride bikes should be in the 30 to upper 50 pound range, have a steeper angled frame in order to make maneuvering on narrow obstacles possible, and be built from stronger, heavier materials.
Downhill Mountain Biking
If you think downhill biking is all about kicking back, stretching your arms and cruising at a leisurely pace, think again. Even though it’s all downhill, biking down a mountain demands concentration, quick reflexes and bike-handling skills much different than free riding or city riding. It’s also a blast! Downhill mountain biking races involve race courses that are designed for riders to speed down while navigating huge jumps, obstacles and more. It’s very similar to motor cross racing.
While it’s true that all bikes go downhill, bikes that provide the optimum ride for Downhill Mountain Biking have what is called full suspension. This means that the front and rear of the frame are equipped with shock absorbers.
Street/Urban Riding
Street/Urban riding is when you bike through urban areas, ride on ledges and other man-made obstacles. Some riders execute tricks as well as stalls and grinds. Hybrid bikes, sometimes called city bikes, are typically used for street/urban riding. Hybrid bikes are a cross between a mountain bike and a road bike. Most have front suspension with wide comfortable seats and upright handlebars.
Free Riding
The essence of free riding has it origins on the shores of British Columbia. As some free riders have explained it, free riding is more than just riding, it’s about riding with your friends and doing things on your bike that push the limits of both yourself and your bike. It’s not about being the fastest or coming up with a new trick. Rather, it’s about being totally free on your bike. Free riding is different for everyone. Essentially, when you ride for pure enjoyment, do your own thing, in your own way, that’s free riding--making it more of a mindset than a structured style of riding. For example, you could free ride downhill, cross-country or down the boardwalk in Ocean City, Maryland.
Many free ride bikes closely resemble downhill bikes and weigh as much, although they are usually designed to be easier to pedal. Free ride bikes should be in the 30 to upper 50 pound range, have a steeper angled frame in order to make maneuvering on narrow obstacles possible, and be built from stronger, heavier materials.
Downhill Mountain Biking
If you think downhill biking is all about kicking back, stretching your arms and cruising at a leisurely pace, think again. Even though it’s all downhill, biking down a mountain demands concentration, quick reflexes and bike-handling skills much different than free riding or city riding. It’s also a blast! Downhill mountain biking races involve race courses that are designed for riders to speed down while navigating huge jumps, obstacles and more. It’s very similar to motor cross racing.
While it’s true that all bikes go downhill, bikes that provide the optimum ride for Downhill Mountain Biking have what is called full suspension. This means that the front and rear of the frame are equipped with shock absorbers.
Strength Training For Cycling
The research done to date on the effects of weight training on cyclists has brought mixed results. The study done by Ben Hurley at the University of Maryland had 10 healthy men take up strength training (bench presses, hip flexions, knee extensions, knee flexions, press-ups, leg presses, lat pulldowns, arm curls, parallel squats, and bent-knee sit-ups) for 12 weeks, while eight other healthy men served as controls. After 12 weeks, the strength-trained men improved their endurance while cycling at an intensity of 75 per cent V02max by 33 per cent and also lifted lactate threshold (the single best predictor of endurance performance) by 12 per cent.
However, these men were untrained prior to the study and did not carry out regular cycling workouts during the research, so the applicability of these findings to serious athletes is questionable
The study carried out by R. C. Hickson and his colleagues at the University of Illinois at Chicago was considerably more practical. In that investigation, eight experienced cyclists added three days per week of strength training to their regular endurance routines over a 10-week period. The strength training was incredibly simple, focusing on parallel squats (five sets of five reps per workout), knee extensions (three sets of five reps), knee flexions (3 x 5), and toe raises (3 x 25), all with fairly heavy resistance. The only progression utilized in the program involved the amount of resistance, which increased steadily as strength improved.
Nonetheless, the strength training had a profoundly positive impact on cycling performance. After 10 weeks, the cyclists improved their 'short-term endurance' (their ability to continue working at a very high intensity) by about 11 per cent, and they also expanded the amount of time they could pedal at an intensity of 80% V02max from 71 to 85 minutes, about a 20-per cent upgrade.
On the negative side, we have research, carried out by James Home and his colleagues at the University of Cape Town in South Africa, seven endurance cyclists who averaged about 200 kilometers of cycling per week incorporated three strength training sessions into their normal routine. The strength program was relatively unsophisticated, consisting of three sets of up to eight repetitions of hamstring curls, leg presses, and quadriceps extensions using fairly heavy resistance.
After six weeks, the strength training had produced rather impressive gains in strength (the gains averaged a bit more than 20 per cent). However, actual cycling performances were not improved; in fact, they were worse than before the strength training was undertaken! 40-K race times slowed from 59 to 62 minutes, and the strength-trained cyclists complained of feeling 'heavy' and tired during their workouts.
Why did Hickson's study uncover clear advantages associated with strength training for cyclists, while Home's work revealed the reverse?
No one knows for certain, which means it's time for a personal observation. It seems quite likely that the strength training carried out by Hickson's charges improved fatigue resistance in their muscles, permitting them to persist longer both during high-intensity tests of endurance and prolonged efforts at a submaximal (80% V02max) intensity. Meanwhile, it's likely that Home's added strength training sent his athletes into the overtrained - or at least 'stale' - state. The feelings of fatigue which originated shortly after the beginning of strength training suggests that the athletes were simply doing too much work.
Home's cyclists were averaging 124 miles of weekly riding when they started their strength training, while Hickson's athletes were logging considerably fewer miles, so one might be tempted to suggest that strength training can produce major benefits for low-mileage cyclists but does much less for experienced, higher mileage competitors who have already built up considerable strength merely by riding. That certainly wouldn't be an unreasonable thought, but it doesn't explain why strength training per se would actually slow down endurance performances, as it seemed to do for Home's performers (no other study has shown this). It seems very likely that Home's added strength training was simply the straw that broke the camel's back; it wasn't the strength training which slowed the cyclists but the total amount of work they had to complete.
Another issue that was not kept controlled in the studies was nutrition and supplementation which also would have a major impact. It is my personal feeling after three decades in the physical training world that weight training is advantageous in almost all sports when done properly and paired with the correct nutrition.
However, these men were untrained prior to the study and did not carry out regular cycling workouts during the research, so the applicability of these findings to serious athletes is questionable
The study carried out by R. C. Hickson and his colleagues at the University of Illinois at Chicago was considerably more practical. In that investigation, eight experienced cyclists added three days per week of strength training to their regular endurance routines over a 10-week period. The strength training was incredibly simple, focusing on parallel squats (five sets of five reps per workout), knee extensions (three sets of five reps), knee flexions (3 x 5), and toe raises (3 x 25), all with fairly heavy resistance. The only progression utilized in the program involved the amount of resistance, which increased steadily as strength improved.
Nonetheless, the strength training had a profoundly positive impact on cycling performance. After 10 weeks, the cyclists improved their 'short-term endurance' (their ability to continue working at a very high intensity) by about 11 per cent, and they also expanded the amount of time they could pedal at an intensity of 80% V02max from 71 to 85 minutes, about a 20-per cent upgrade.
On the negative side, we have research, carried out by James Home and his colleagues at the University of Cape Town in South Africa, seven endurance cyclists who averaged about 200 kilometers of cycling per week incorporated three strength training sessions into their normal routine. The strength program was relatively unsophisticated, consisting of three sets of up to eight repetitions of hamstring curls, leg presses, and quadriceps extensions using fairly heavy resistance.
After six weeks, the strength training had produced rather impressive gains in strength (the gains averaged a bit more than 20 per cent). However, actual cycling performances were not improved; in fact, they were worse than before the strength training was undertaken! 40-K race times slowed from 59 to 62 minutes, and the strength-trained cyclists complained of feeling 'heavy' and tired during their workouts.
Why did Hickson's study uncover clear advantages associated with strength training for cyclists, while Home's work revealed the reverse?
No one knows for certain, which means it's time for a personal observation. It seems quite likely that the strength training carried out by Hickson's charges improved fatigue resistance in their muscles, permitting them to persist longer both during high-intensity tests of endurance and prolonged efforts at a submaximal (80% V02max) intensity. Meanwhile, it's likely that Home's added strength training sent his athletes into the overtrained - or at least 'stale' - state. The feelings of fatigue which originated shortly after the beginning of strength training suggests that the athletes were simply doing too much work.
Home's cyclists were averaging 124 miles of weekly riding when they started their strength training, while Hickson's athletes were logging considerably fewer miles, so one might be tempted to suggest that strength training can produce major benefits for low-mileage cyclists but does much less for experienced, higher mileage competitors who have already built up considerable strength merely by riding. That certainly wouldn't be an unreasonable thought, but it doesn't explain why strength training per se would actually slow down endurance performances, as it seemed to do for Home's performers (no other study has shown this). It seems very likely that Home's added strength training was simply the straw that broke the camel's back; it wasn't the strength training which slowed the cyclists but the total amount of work they had to complete.
Another issue that was not kept controlled in the studies was nutrition and supplementation which also would have a major impact. It is my personal feeling after three decades in the physical training world that weight training is advantageous in almost all sports when done properly and paired with the correct nutrition.
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